Btu Info For Mac

1) Make sure the LAN connection between Broadband Termination Unit (BTU) and Personal Gateway (PG) is running at 1Gbps. You can usually check via the console usually at (depends on your settings) Using the example, the console indicating the WAN port is running at 100Mbps (usually due to the LAN cable used). If your PG console doesn’t display such information or you are a geek, you can telnet into the router and query the specification. (You might need to Enable telnet access). Chief@RT-AC68U:/tmp# robocfg show Switch: enabled Port 0: 1000FD enabled stp: none vlan: 2 jumbo: off mac: 00:01:11:22:33:44 Port 1: DOWN enabled stp: none vlan: 1 jumbo: off mac: 00:00:00:00:00:00 Port 2: 1000FD enabled stp: none vlan: 1 jumbo: off mac: 00:0e:11:22:33:44 Port 3: 1000FD enabled stp: none vlan: 1 jumbo: off mac: 38:2c:11:22:33:44 Port 4: DOWN enabled stp: none vlan: 1 jumbo: off mac: 00:00:00:00:00:00 Port 8: DOWN enabled stp: none vlan: 2 jumbo: off mac: 00:00:00:00:00:00.

• Btu Info For Mac Os
• Btu Info For Macbook

2) Check Your BTU-PG Typical Landed Home Setup for Unifi (or any Fiber broadband). Image from official Unifi homepage Whilst there’s nothing much we could do from outside of the premise, we assume the outside infrastructure has been properly established 1) Make sure the LAN connection between Broadband Termination Unit (BTU) and Personal Gateway.

Firewood BTU Ratings Charts for Common Tree Species The firewood BTU rating charts below give a comparison between different firewood types. This can help you decide what the best firewood type is for your needs. You can click on the different types of firewood in the chart to learn more about them. Please leave your comments or questions on those pages if you have experience or questions about those types of firewood. A cord is 128 cubic feet of stacked wood. Because of the air space between the pieces of wood, the amount of solid wood in a cord may be only 70-90 cubic feet, even though the volume of the stack is 128 cubic feet.

Eastern Hardwoods Compiled from various sources Consistency between charts will vary due to different variables between different data sources. Species Heat Content Million BTU’s per Cord Weight Pounds Per Cord Dry 32.9 4728 27.7 4327 27.1 4016 26.8 3890 26.8 3890 26.8 3890 26.8 3890 26.5 3832 26.5 4100 25.8 3712 25.7 4012 24.0 3757 24.0 3757 24.0 3757 24.0 3757 23.6 3689 21.8 3150 21.6 3112 20.8 3247 Kentucky Coffeetree 20.8 3247 20.3 3179 20.3 3179 20.2 3192 20.0 3120 20.0 3120 19.9 2880 19.5 2880 19.5 3052 19.5 3052 19.1 2992 18.7 2924 18.1 2900 17.9 2797 15.9 2482 14.7 2295 Butternut 14.5 2100 14.3 2236 13.5 2108 13.5 2108. Compiled from various sources. Consistency between charts will vary due to different variables between different data sources Species Heat Content Million BTU’s per Cord Weight Pounds Per Cord Dry 21.6 3112 20.8 3247 Jack Pine 17.1 2669 Norway Pine 17.1 2669 Pitch Pine 17.1 2669 15.9 2482 15.9 2482 Eastern White Pine 14.3 2236 Balsam Fir 14.3 2236 Eastern White Cedar 12.2 1913 Eastern Red Cedar These charts will give you the amount of energy per cord of wood for some of the most common firewood species. The data for these charts was compiled from various sources with different firewood types. There is some conflicting data between different sources due to different calculating variables. As with most BTU charts I have seen available some of the numbers may be a little off but are in the general ballpark.

I have put together the best data I could find but consider the figures to be approximate. Much of the inconsistencies are from different variables such as how much actual solid wood is assumed to be in a cord.

A cord is 128 cubic feet but in any stack of wood there will be air space between the pieces. As a result a cord of wood may only have 70-90 cubic feet of actual solid wood. This varies with the size and shape of the wood and how tightly it is stacked.

BTU’s or British Thermal Units are a measure of the amount of heat energy available in any given substance. Opinions of firewood can vary with personal preferences and individual burning needs.

You are welcome to discuss this topic and share your experience and your best firewood tree species below and in our. All firewood has about the same BTU per pound. Non resinous wood has around 8000 to 8500 BTU per pound and resinous wood has around 8600 to 9700 BTU per pound. Less dense softwoods have less BTU per cord than more dense hardwood but they also weigh less per cord. Resinous wood has more BTU per pound because the resins have more BTU per pound than wood fiber has. Live Oak,Chinquapin,and Dogwood are eastern species,not Western.Live Oak is limited to Southeastern States. Chinquapin and Dogwood are common here in Ohio.

Thanks for the listings.I burn 3-4 cords every Winter,and burn all but the softwoods.I was looking for BTU content for Walnut and Mulberry,having quite a plentiful supply of those. The ongoing extinction of the Ash,all species,is supplying all our needs now,and for a few more years,sad business.

In my lifetime I have seen the end of the Chestnut,the American elm,and now the Ash, Dick Ashton. I have a rather large Bradford pear that I need to take down. It is quite old and is hanging over mine and my neighbors drive ways. Iv’e only ived here for the last 4 years, It should have been pruned back many years ago but now to late and needs to be cut down.

I have not found it listed anywhere as rated for firewood and was wondering if it would produce enough heat to make it worthwhile for use in the fireplace. The fireplace is not our primary heat source but we enjoy a fire each evening in the winter. I can’t find any information anywhere on bradford pear btu either.

According to wikipedia bradford pear trees originally come from China. So you are probably not going to find much information about it as far as btu or about its wood in general since it is not a common source of firewood outside of Asia. But in my opinion any kind of wood is worth cutting up and burning as long as it isn’t totally rotten or anything. Some have more heat than others but if you already have it you might as well cut it up and burn it. As long as it’s dry it will burn and put out enough heat to make it worth it since you don’t have to buy the wood.

My comment doesnt pertain to btus so much, but would like to say that here in central Ind., I look for elms,not sure if there rock, red or slippery elms.But easy to spot cuz they die avg. 10 – 24 inche in diam. They then loose there bark &; become silver faded color &; will stand dead for yrs. They r clean, no bark or bugs, hard as a rock & burn hot! The inside resembles red or white oak color & grain. They can b very hard to split cuz its stringy. We have many native hardwoods here but this is the best, cleanest stuff Ive found.

The Btu rating for Almond varies from 29 to 32, why the variance? Because Almond has as many varieties as the fruit in which the bare! But it is still the least discovered hardwood/cooking wood around except where they have the Orchards. One of the hottest longest burning Eucalyptus Varieties is the Red Gum, we harvest up to 100 different varieties of Euc and for the heat/Btu factor Red gum is the best by far, Btu is in the mid thirties!

I do have a questiondo they test the btu factor at sea level or in an elevation, i have found that many of the old myth’s to be untrue as far as burn time and heat factor, ash rate in many different varieties of wood in elevation above 2500′ to 5000′, been doing this for awhile, just wondering if anyone else has found this to be true? I live here in north west tennessee near the miss river. We have tons of the best hard woods in this country.

I am courious about the btu of pecan and swamp chestnut oak and which oak burns the best. I farm a good bit of ground and we have about 350 acres of river bottom woods.

I am planning on doing a little experiment to find out which wood is best for campfires and fire pits. I already know seasoned oak is gonna be near the top choice because of the hot coals it produces.

Campfires need much radiant heat to keep you warm on a chilly night. Hot fires and cold beer!!!! Out here in the West we don’t have all the great hardwoods that you have there in your part of the country. We have oaks and madrone as our more common hardwoods. Out here people often pass up oak in favor of madrone, where it is available. But you are right about oak making a great bed of coals, and in an outdoor fire the extra ash won’t be so much a problem like in a wood stove. Oak is also great for grilling over an outdoor fire.

Great heat as well as flavor. I think you have inspired me to do a test some day of oak vs madrone in a camp fire. Be sure and let us know how your test goes. Interesting reading. Re Bradford Pear, we had one in our front yard that lasted about 15 yrs., then went the way of many: split in a storm. Still have some pieces, which are quite dry by now. I have no empirical data, but for us they have given decent heat.

They also give a pleasant smell, though not as nice as red oak, cherry, or yellow birch. Builders planted them everywhere in Maryland, so talk about an abundant supply of firewood. Like some other fruitwoods, however–particularly mulberry–they are difficult to set on fire. As a firewood enthusiast, I read with great envy about “350 acres of river bottom woods”.

Here in suburban MD (1/2 way between DC and Balt.), I am reduced to asking neighbors or builders if I can haul away their downed trees. The good news is that virtually all of the time, they say yes. Right now, I have neighbors interested in buying some wood from me, and am waiting for permission to harvest some mulberry (the devil itself to set on fire and man, does it spark, but abundant here and as energy-rich as white oak). Have also taken large quantities of red oak (everyone’s favorite) and red maple (the poor man’s oak), and smaller amounts of cherry (nice smell), beech (hot stuff), yellow birch (great smell), white oak, and sweetgum. The latter is superabundant here, but is the “devil itself to split”. In fact, I’m convinced you can’t, conventionally. I try to split off 1-inch wide slivers all the way around the round, light these (gum is easy to get burning), and then place the reduced size log on whole.

Like the man said, if you got it free, it’s worth burning for heat. Don’t know much about western woods, except that the citrus groves my wife’s family own in Mesa, AZ make tremendous wood for fires. I did My little campfire experiment to find out the best hardwood for a campfire. I had some mostly seasoned red oak, shagbark hickory, and black locust. Some fully seasoned apple,beech and american elm and some partially seasoned pecan and bradford pear.

The red oak gave the most bang for the buck.It burned long,hot and gave some great coals that put out some good btu’s. The only draw back is it gives little flame for a campfire. Great aroma too.

We have tons of felling oak tree’s pushed up waiting to be cut, fully seasoned too!!! Hickory was my overall favorite. It burned very hot with big blue-yellow flames and gave the best aroma. My neighbors complemented on the smell of it.It’s great cooking wood too. I already have my next tree cut and seasoning.

I had about 10 mid-size logs of the black locust I burned. They put out some tremendous heat. They had a good mid-size flame and burned a long time. The drawback is that the tree’s are small and have thorns. The apple is a good secret that most wood burners never thought of. It burns with a big bright flame then turns into a big bed of red hot coals that burn forever.

It smells great too. The coals cook a mean hot dog after a few brews. I found a big beech limb fully seasoned and cut it up for a try. It burns as hot as hll. The metal on our fire pit melted.

The beech also burns to a good lasting coal. Elm is easy to find around here. Just look for a barkless dead tree in a fence row. It’s a good starter wood. Burns with a big bright flame and burns sorta slow. The drawbacks are the stinky smoke and the fact I had to poke it every 10 min and its hard to split.

The pecan burned good considering it wasn’t fully seasoned. It was cut 4 month prior to burning in the winter.

The small, more seasoned stuff burned with mid flame and burned very slow. I really can’t speak for pecan until I can try it seasoned. The aroma is pleasant too. The draw back is it is very hard to split. I’ll have much pecan to burn this fall, we cut a huge tree.

The bradford pear burned fast with a mid size flame. It was partially seasoned so I really can’t say if its good firewood or not. I do know the tree I burned had a bad aroma.

Maybe the aroma will get better with age after seasoning this summer. I found that if you have some green (wet) wood and want to have a campfire go to your local hardware store and buy a duraflame fire log. Light it then put the wet wood on top and watch the water and steam spew out of the ends.

After the moisture evaporates the logs burn great. I will definitely cut more hickory, beech and oak. If I come across more apple I will cut it. The bradford pear can go to the dump along with the elm. THE MAN MENTIONED CEDAR GAVE OFF LITTLE TO NO HEAT. I BELIEVE THE CEDAR HE’S TALKING ABOUT IS INCENSE CEDAR. I OWED A SAWMILL IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA MTNS (LK ARROWHEAD, BIG BEAR AREA) AND THERE WAS ALOT OF THAT THERE (AS WELL AS IN NORTHERN CALI).

THAT IS THE SWEET-SMELLING AROMIC CEDAR THEY LINE CLOSETS WITH. NO BUGS EITHER. IT IS USELESS FOR FIREWOOD BECAUSE OF THE LITTLE/NO HEAT OUTPUT, BUT MAINLY IT’S TOO DANGEROUS TO BURN INDOORS, AS IT POPS AND EXPLODES AND THROWS SPARKS EVERYWHERE. WE MADE BARTOPS, SHELVES, AND FENCING OUT OF IT (PRIMO FOR THOSE, AS THE GRAIN IS VERY PRETTY AND CONTRASTING). WE DID HOWEVER, CUT AND SPLIT ALOT INTO FIREWOOD FOR, OF ALL PEOPLE, THE BAREFOOT FIREWALKERS!

THE COALS GLOW REDHOT LIKE OAK, BUT WITH HARDLY ANY HEAT. THAT’S HOW THEY DO IT! NOW I LIVE IN ARIZONA AND THE CEDAR OUT HERE IS TOTALLY DIFFERENT!

I BELIEVE IT’S CALLED SALT CEDAR. PRACTICALLY EVERY RANCH FENCE HERE AND NEW MEXICO IS MADE FROM IT, IT’S EASILY SPLIT AND IT RESISTS ROTTING. AND TALK ABOUT FIREWOOD, IT BURNS HOT AND IS FAIRLY LONG LASTING.ABOUT HALF OF MY YEARLY FIREWOOD IS THIS CEDAR.I’D CALL THIS TYPE SOMEWHAT OF A HARDWOOD, UNLIKE INCENSE CEDAR. Barry, I think tulip poplar would be similar to cottonwood since they are both in the poplar family.

Maybe a little more BTU’s than cottonwood. I think I saw on another btu chart that poplar is 17.0, but not totally for sure. Be sure to let it season before burning to know how it should truly burn.Funny Story, I had a friend that cut a storm fallen red oak. A week later he tried to burn it and told me to never burn oak, because it burned terrible and smoked bad. I told him that wood had to dry before burning and he said ” its been drying all week long, it should be dry by now ”. True story.

Here in South Central Alaska, all we have is Birch, Black Spruce and Cottonwood. Spruce and Birch both probably have about the same BTU rating, however I have found that Birch burns cleaner.

Cottonwood (we refer it as Waterwood) is worthless. By time it is dry, there is nothing left. Being a transplant from So. Cal., I really miss having Live Oak and Eucalypyus to burn. Both put out considerably more heat than anything we have in Alaska and when it’s -30 outside you can use all the BTUs you can get. Stay Warm, Mike Someone asked about Avacado.

Don’t even bother. I used to have a orchard in San Diego and it doesn’t do anything, but turn to ash. I believe that pecan should be very high in BTU’s and close to the other hickories, only because it’s in the family.

Too far north for pecan here. There is nothing wrong with burning well seasoned softwoods, but care should be taken not to over fire with ones that tend to burn fast and hot. I use a LOT of hemlock because I have 10 acres of hemlock woods and trees come down in storms and have to be cleaned up.

It is a decent fuel, but very heavy when green and very light when dry. It throws sparks so only should be used in stoves that can be closed. It is impossible to split when green and easy when dry, but unless special precautions are taken it’ll rot rather than season. The answer for me was a wood splitter, which does a nice job with it and the hardwoods I also use. Latest data that I’ve read is that seasoned softwoods causing creosote problems is baloney.

Well seasoned softwoods, including the pines, firs and spruces can be burned for heat. It’s not the best, but it will warm you. Hemlock has the strange property of the trunk being soft, but the branches, especially the knots where they meet the trunk are very hard, so bucking the trunk requires planning.

Found this site this morning while revising essay on “free heat.” All very interesting, but I think these charts might reflect potential input of these woods. Output is a whole ‘nother cat. Do you split with a maul and wedges, or with a gas powered splitter? How do you burn and what type of stove do you use? Sure, willow’s not much good, and I quit dragging it home years ago. But as one reader noted, all species have roughly the same BTU potential per pound.

In Iowa we mix our loads in the stove out of boredom. Stay warm and don’t worry about it so much. Live in S/W Missouri, and wood heat is our only source for 3,400 sq. White and red oak burn well. Mulberry burns wonderfully, but gets so hot it put a crack in our first cast-iron stove when it was used as a full load, so we only use one piece at a time with other woods.

Hedge (Osage Orange) will do the same thing. There was a guy down the road whose stove completely melted when he filled it with all hedge. Cedar doesn’t heat well for us, and throws a lot of creosote up the chimney, so we only use it for outside campfires. We raise pecans, and they burn cleanly and well, as do prunings from our apple trees. Don’t worry about the ashes your stove produces. So long as you’re only burning good hardwoods and/or clean white (non-glossy/colored) paper stock and kindling, you should spread your ashes on your favorite acreage for the potash.

Your plants’ roots will love you for it! However, keep in mind that ashes should have cooled for several days, and it’s easiest to do it during winter snows or before a rain. Sprinkle lightly, don’t dump, and over several years, we’ve seen a material improvement in our plants and soil from recycling everything full circle. Well here it is getting to be winter in upstate NY again and the little woodstove in our basement has been running since September or so. It’s already snowed a couple ‘o times and was snowing today (BUMMER!). We burn mostly old-growth sugar maple w some white ash, black cherry, beech and black maple thrown in. I’d like to burn red oak as well but it’s a little too cold for it around here.

The maple burns very well though w good hot hard coals that will last the night if I get too lazy to feed the fire at 3am. When it’s cold out, I seem less lazy to get up in the middle of the night to keep the fire hot overnight. When we are burning both stoves say in January, then I’m just a wood-slave the whole day long. Happiness is a full woodbox on Friday night! Cheers fellow wood burners!

I’m out here in southern Oregon, and there’s red fir, which is a true fir, just as white fir, and grand fir are. Douglas fir is a so-called mix of sorts, as stated by others. Anyway, I find it interesting that not one mention of mountain mahogany has been posted-until now. Lots of heat and hot coals-kept us from freezing one late night at 6,000 feet in late October, while we were wasting time patroling a wildfire in NE California back in ’85. The two common types found in these parts are “tall shrubs” or “small trees”, depending on site characteristics They are in the Rose family. Not a true mahogany at all.

But the common name aptly applies due to it’s obvious high density and/or hardnessprobably how it got the common name in the first place. We collect it as “down and dead” firewood when we are cutting western juniper (J.occidentalis), mostly on B.L.M. It doesn’t seem to put out much ash, but does put out some real heat. I haven’t been able to compare it to madrone, or the oaks (like Oregon white, black oak, etc.). Over the years I’ve heard people in this region say it gets too hot for stovesif they use only the mahogany I imagine. One final note, as a kid I grew up where the streets where lined with English Walnuts and Shagbark Hickory planted around 1900 or sokept the red tree squirrels happy (and perhaps a few mean cats).

I have done a lot of research over the last few months on the best wood here in the mid-south (west Tennessee). The information was gathered by internet and talking to old timers. For wood stoves I beleive ash,oak,hickory mix.

My grand dad swears beech is king. A few other elders like black locust. Persimmon is a good secret,burns hot and long. I saw were it is in the same family as ebony. Persimmon is one of the most dense wood around this area. Apple is another good secret. Big bright flames and smells good.Also beech is a very clean burning wood according to my grand dad.Smokes very little and burns to a huge coal.

I have found a good way to make charcoal if your a pyro maniac / fire bug like me. First find you a steel bucket with a metal lid. A used asphalt coating bucket or any small metal bucket with lid will work. Then fill it with fist size chunks of natural wood, then put the lid on. Be sure to poke a couple holes to vent the gases.Then get a 55 gal drum or make a small kiln to put your bucket in.Start your fire then put the bucket in. Let it cook for about 2 hrs or until the flames from the gases slow down from spewing out the holes in the bucket lid.

Be sure to have a good roaring fire the whole time the wood is cooking and make sure the wood that is being used for charcoal is well seasoned.The greener the wood the less charcoal will be produced and it will greatly increase the production time.My next batch will be made using a 55 gal drum to hold the wood for charcoal and I will make a concrete block kiln to hold my fire.This should make about 50 -75 lbs of hickory pecan mix charcoal. The last batch I made got the temp on my grill to well over 600 degrees with just a small mound. I can’t tell the actual temp because it made the temp gauge go past the max 600 degree mark then go back around to the 200 degree mark. The store bought lump charcoal gets it to usually 500. I’m in California, about 3800 ft up the west side of the Sierra Navadas. Nice transitional forest on our 20 acres includes black oak, manzanita, live oak, firs, oaks and cedars.

Many black oaks lost big limbs in the surprise snow of Nov 2010. I’m still retrieving all the down stuff and will continue for a couple years, at least. The black oaks just had too many leaves in that Nov and the snow was too heavy. The live oaks did just fine since they have such small leaves (unless they got in the way of a falling black oak). Chopped up a few live oaks and boy that is a great wood for the fireplace! Have a lot of ancient dead manzanitas that also burn fantastically in the fp.

Have burned fir and cedar from the property, but so far have stayed away from the pine. Hey Jim in No Cal – Go fast on the oak.

I live on the west slope too and have found that oak, even when protected, doesn’t keep that well, unlike cedar, pine, fir, or lodgepole. Keeps for a couple years at best.

I have old growth straight grain cedar I cut in the early 90’s for kindling and it’s still as good as the day I cut it. Oak gets borers and starts getting dusty with sawdust falling out.

If you leave oak in the woods til you need it, well, there’s lots of bugs and stuff that love to digest it. If you can, sell it and save the $$$ to buy fresh 1 yr old wood later on from someone else. I live in East Tennessee which has a great variety of hardwoods.

Personally, when I am home, I burn alot of Pitch Pine. I know I know I can hear the comments about creosote but as long as it is dry and you give it air to burn it does great.

It does burn a little fast but it throws out the heat. Also, their is plenty of it and nobody burns it so is always available and helps to conserve my hardwood. Also, box elm burns decent but it stinks. Personally, the best wood in the world is whatever I can get my hands on.

Hey Mikee, your right, red oak goes fast and so does beech and elm. White oak is fairly rot resistant. This is my first year heating with wood. We have 2 cast iron wood stoves and a drafty 200 year old house in central new York state.

We have burned about 7 1/2 cord and I just ran out. There’s a very large pile of willow butt logs, in a bunch pile from the willow my landlords had cut down, it’s an eyesore and I’m tempted to lop it up and split it, not only to get rid of it but firewood is going for 210.00 per cord here and I’m thinking it’s not cost effective to bother with wood having natural gas for the furnace. Long story short, am I wasting my time with that willow? Or would it be worth the heat and not having that pile to look at anymore? I grew up in central Illinois and we had a lot of hedge rows that were being cut. Most of the trees in the hedge rows were Osage Orange. We just called them hedge trees.

A lot of them were planted during the dust bowl times to prevent wind erosion. Seems most farmers are removing them now to get more acres in corn and soybeans. Back in the day they used to use the limbs for fence posts and the wood would last decades in the ground with out rotting.

The wood from these trees makes the greatest stove wood there is. The only problems with it are that it throws a ton of sparks and is not good for a fireplace for that reason and when cured it is harder than a hub to hell and next to imposible to split by hand. They have a wierd looking fruit that is bright green and and can be as big as a cantaloupe and just as heavy. We used to call them hedge apples. They also have little thorns on the smaller limbs. I live in Wisconsin now and have never seen one up here.

Brings back a lot of memories of cutting firewood with my grandpa. Oh, and one other thing. Never park under one when thay have hedge apples on them.

If one falls on your truck it’s like having a bowling ball hit it. The earth is drwoning in CO2 from burning sequestered carbon. When you grow a tree, you take carbon out of the atmospere. When you burn the tree, you put the carbon back.

So there is no net Co2 that goes into the atmosphere. If some of the wood is used for construction, there is a net decrease in CO2 from the activity.

A well educated, 76 year old, freedom loving American who worries about my children and grandchildren. If you burn coal, you are leaving a destiny of death and starvation for your descendents and mine! You best be looking over your shoulder as you drive home with your coal! I just split and stacked 4 yr supply of silver maple, so I’m sorry to see how low its BTU rating is. (I’m assuming it rates as a soft maple) Luckily, our home is passive solar with super-insulated walls so it will still be worth burning.

I may mix it up with buckthorn which has invaded my woods. However, someone told me that buckthorn burns so hot you have to be careful your wood-burner doesn’t crack.

Has anyone heard of this problem? I’ve also heard this about black locust, which I also burn. I’m thrilled to read about mulberry’s quallities–there’s alot of that here in WI. I live in Washington State,and We have a lot of conifers here!

The tight grained old growth Douglas Fir is as about as good as it gets.Put two big blocks on Your fire at night,button it down good,and when You open it in the morning You’ll find a big,beautiful bed of coals—but stand back,because when the air hits it,it will ignite big time!!! Old growth Western Red Cedar,while it makes for the very best kindling,will burn TOO hot and damage a wood stove or insert!!!! Then there is Vine Maple—some of THE toughest wood I have ever encountered!!!! It burns like coal,but wreaks havoc on a chainsaw and chain!!! I have not tried the Madrona yet,but have a quarter of a cord for sale for $75.00! Thanks for all the input!!!!!! Northern Cal checking in, renovated an old homestead 5 years ago and have been clearing doug fir and california bay laurel for fire safety zone around the house.

It has kept us plenty warm every winter, we ensure we have a chimney sweep come out and check the wood stove and chimney once a year. All the old timer’s around only burn oak and turn their nose up at fir. Like several posters have commented, a big chunk of fir will last for 5-6 hours in the wood stove, and makes for an easy re-start in the morning. After seeing this list, I now understand why live oak dulls my chainsaw blades so quick.

It is a hot burning wood and is very heavy to move. Like another poster mentioned, the oaks need to be processed and used quickly, they get bugs and start to rot very soon after coming down. The doug fir gets the bark beetles that work away the outer layer, but if you can get the bark off the wood it will last several years. Another opinion added to the interwebs Cheers, Happy Burning. Love reading the comments from Andy. I enjoyed the story about his neighbor that let his oak fire wood dry for a whole week and it wouldn’t burn LOL!!!!

Sounds like my neighbor would get along great with yours. The few times he has a bonfire he cooks hotdogs and marshmallows over treated oak pallet wood!!! I have pictures of him with an electric pole saw (he’s deathly afraid of power equipment)cutting 2″ diameter branches on the ground!!! I guess it’s people like these that make for an interesting world. My wife and I just purchased 12.5 acres of old growth hard wood forest in Pembroke, NY (Sugar Maple, Beech, Cherry, Ash to name a few) and will be on my way there today to give the Stihl a work out!!! I have 30 acres in northwest Missouri.

I look for fallen trees that are gray and smooth. I’ll cut a limb, and if it’s yellow inside it’s hedge. I like to drag it out into the open on a log chain with the tractor. When cutting, I have to sharpen my chain saw pretty frequently. The smaller stuff makes a great campfire for cold weather, putting off a blue flame and tons of heat. If you’re going to load up your wood stove with the big stuff overnight, you might consider leaving the air intake barely cracked open.

We normally burn red oak in the fireplace. I also recently got some red maple that makes a good fireplace flame, if not a lot of heat. I have been clearing land of cottonwood for a hay meadow in Central Kansas and I decided to burn it. It burns so well I mix it with red elm, mulberry, or ash. My wood cribs have steel floors to keep the wood off the ground and away from bugs, so the wood stays dry.

Anyone who thinks it’s crappy has either failed to keep it dry, not split it small enough or burned it green. I get up in the morning and heat our little berm home from 66-67 to 71-74 degrees with cottonwood and red elm in an hour and a half with cottonwood providing the bulk of the heat. Does anyone have any experience with growing and maintaining a small coppice wood? I’m in North Texas and I have a half acre I can devote to renewable firewood. I have been researching on the Net and found some basic info but nothing so far as to how often/what size to harvest different wood species. I have tentatively decided on part native Osage Orange hedge apple for the BTU but I see from all the knowledgeable comments here I need more than one type of wood. Any advice as to species, training, harvest and also seasoning of smallish diameter limbs, or direction to such information, would be much appreciated.

I’m new to burning wood in an open fireplace. I’m here in S.E. I have to say, I’ve tried Red Oak and not impressed. I will say that it leaves very little coals and very little ash. I have Hickory and just love it! It get’s super hot and leaves a hot bed of coals.

The smell just get’s me ready for breakfast as soon as I get it going! I picked up some cherry wood and have to say, I’m very impressed. The initial smell is like a sweet-smelling perfume. It does get hotter than the Red Oak and leaves hot coals. I am going to try some Apple wood next to see if it matches up with the hickory. I prefer the hot, sweet-smelling woods. Fire it upFire it up!

Greetings all. George, it’s a bit cooler up here in the lower Hudson Valley, and we’ve been burning in the 18th C. Dutch hearth since Hurricane Sandy. Mostly ash, as all my neighbors here in northeast New Jersey a spit from the Hudson River are culling their ash trees for fear of the borer. Nothing burns green like ash. Also have lots (4 cord) of seasoned oak and cherry on hand.

Btu Info For Mac Os

Nothing seasons meat on the grill like the cherry–although I look forward to trying beech based on comments above. And Sandy brought down a dozen beech trees in our town.

Any thoughts ya’ll on hydraulic splitter (28-ton commercial grade) as against fly-wheel like DR Power with its 3-second cycle? Can the latter possibly split 36″ diameter 2′ drums? Best regards all, Chris. Being a semi professional firewood dealer here in the Redding area of the State of Jefferson, California I find a lot of mixed wood. As previously stated by others, forget ANY cottonwood, only one or two sticks at a time for Manzanita as it is super hot. Many use digger pine as it is reasonably priced, but requires that yearly clean out. Lots of oak available here, but I still take what I can get.

In regards to Splitters, I have a homemade hydraulic 28 Ton that had cycle issues. Had it rebuilt for speed and efficiency but yet to use it. MY PREFERENCE would be the DR flywheel special. Man that thing smokes with efficiency.

Btu Info For Macbook

Just call them and ask about what it can handle. Nobody seems able to beat 3 second cycle for efficiency for single splitters. The multiple piece splitters seem highly efficient also. Burn, baby Burn!

There are some issues out here in the west that may not be present in other areas, just a heads up if it helps. First is IronWood. Burns hotter than any wood I have ever seen, is becoming rare and may be protected in some areas. But smoke is very dangerous, known carcinogen.

Was used centuries ago as a last rite in dwelling of certain Mohave Indian tribes when older people were near death. Also warning about the manmade white fruitless mulberry, something wrong with smoke in that too. Not talking about ordinary white mulberry, just the fruitless ones. We live in the foothills of North Carolina and heat with a Big Buck wood stove.

Something not mentioned yet that I bring from my Georgia heritage is Fat Lighter. This is the resin soaked sticks of pine that will light with a match and makes an excellent starter. In the dead of winter find a pine tree that you want to cut.

Leave the stump about 36″ high. In mid-summer, after the sap has risen and saturated the stump, cut it. We like to go ahead and cut the stump in 9″ sections. Split these sections into sticks. Have a friend with a fireplace?, bundle about a dozen of the fat lighter sticks with a ribbon and this makes a great gift. Would it be possible to post the btu value of Monterey Pine?

Around here it is about the most common tree taken down by tree services, so lots of firewood guys sell it because they get the wood dropped off in their yards for free. If it is really dry it gives off some heat, but I usually recommend it as a campfire wood. When we’re craning wood out of the tree or hauling big Monterey pine I use the weight charts for Douglas fir since I’ve read they are almost the same density green.

I don’t know how they compare split and dried. I really don’t get the obsession with BTU by speicies. Isn’t it just as simple as – the more lbs of wood that your shove in the hole, the more heat you get?

The speices discussion boils down to one quantitative parameter, I.e. Density, and several qualitative parameters – smell, ash production, fast/slow burn, ease of starting, ease of splitting, color/look of flame, popping/sparking and probably others. I’d like to see a table with all of these parameters listed by species. For me and my outdoor boiler, I prefer the “junk” wood like aspen and spruce. It’s abundent where I live – Northern MN. I can lift a 3′ log of aspen into my fire box – the same oak log is too heavy.

The aspen and spruce burn quickly and hot which works well with my boiler’s aquastat and powered vent system – when the water cools below 175F, the fan kicks on and the easy starting, fast burning “junk” wood flames up quickly which works well to maintain a constant water temp at 180F – maintains the set point and keeps the control loop tight. A slower burning wood like oak is too slow to respond and may not flame up when heat is called for. So, I’m of the opinion that there is no “best firewood” – it really depends on your application and how you value the qualitative aspects of each speicies. I live in so. Central KS and have been burning Osage Orange for 27 yrs in a Majestic insert fireplace with a blower. FYI, this insert has glass doors and a chain-link curtain inside them. While this cuts down on sparks, it still doesn’t keep smaller ones from escaping thru the gaps in the doors.

I added another folding screen to the hearth, plus a stainless steel screen that has 1/32″ holes in it. This keeps all sparks from shooting onto our carpet. The fireplace is rated at a whopping 25% efficient! I have burned about every tree that grows in this county (except cottonwood and willow, which is about worthless), and the best, by far, is Osage Orange. If you look at a BTU chart, it has either the highest or 2nd highest rating of all wood that grows in the US.

Burning any other woods is a total waste of time and effort. My chimney has never had to be cleaned because of burning hedge that has been dead for many years, plus the fact that it burns so hot. Creosote cannot form in such an environment. I have also burned green osage orange. The greatest downside to using it is the abundance of tree sap that adheres to one’s gloves during the cutting and stacking process. In the fireplace, it is consumed due to the extreme heat of the wood, and the wood burns just as if it has been dead for several years.

It will spark quite a bit, however, when the burning logs collapse upon one another during the burning process. As such, glass doors are essential to preventing a fire in your living room. The Majestic fireplace has held up quite well, except for the back wall. About 15 yrs ago, it warped and a 10″ long split developed in it, so I had a 3/16″ steel plate welded over the split, and since then, everything is hunky-dory. I burn 24/7, and use about two cords from Nov. Thru Mar., with several 3-day breaks every three weeks or so when the temps are a bit higher.

Our house is a 3 BR split level affair. And keep the bedroom doors about a foot from closed to save heat. We also leave the basement door partially open so as not to encourage the water pipes to freeze. The only problem I have now is that I’m having trouble finding trees to cut. They’re all gone around here.

I heat 5,500 sq ft with 130,000 BTU Franks Piping Wood Boiler from Quebec CDN. Superb device. I like burning Birch in fireplaces but getrun away fires ( read relief valve blows @ 100 c) if it does not stay at – 30,40 C. But have found fore killed spruce / pine that had topsburned off in forest fire but roots kept sending sap to tree gives best heat! It is much heavier than air dryed spruce and black burned bark has fallen off after time so it is clean to cut & process any one know BTU ofthis fire killed spruce v. Air dried spruce? My grad parents were pioneers who cooked /heated homestead houses with white popular!

My grandfather told that with him carrying wood in all winter and grandma hauling out the ashes he never saw her all winter!! I could turn on electric or gas boiler but the excercise and knowing you are hurting bottom line of Electrical Supply Utility keeps me burning solid fuel!! I own 60 acres here in upstate NY, 2 hours north of NYC. I primarily have Red Oak, Black Cherry, American Elm, Red Maple, Locust, Hickory, Cottonwood, Poplar, growing in the woods. With an abundance of Apple orchards in the area, Apple wood is also readily available. My favorite wood to burn, has always been standing dead elm. It burns very hot,and produces nice heat.

Black Cherry, and Apple give off a wonderful aroma,as well as producing nice heat. Red Oak requires a bit of time to season, but burns well after 2 years. I live in Northeastern Pennsylvania, where I have 20 acres of mixed hardwoods. Mostly ash, cherry, shagbark hickory, maple and beech.

We just felled 12 mature ash trees – 12 to 24 inches in diameter, and are now bucking them up and splitting them. I like ash because you can cut it and burn it the same day and it splits easily. It does have a more bitter, eye burning smoke than most woods. If you’ve ever seen or read the “firewood poem”, the last line is “Ash wood wet and ash wood dry, a king will warm his slippers by.”.

Don’t waste your time with Sweetgum wood. Very hard to split, but more importantly it doesn’t burn well at all. Very smoky and almost smells acidic when it burns and it doesn’t seem to produce much flame or heat. Fresh cut it has a sap like a pine in the outer bark but overall it contains a lot of water depending on the time of year it is cut. The wood will not keep very well even on a rack I have had it rot out. As far as a tree to keep in your yard, no good. Sometimes the base of the tree is hollow with a wet sawdust inside.

This can freeze in extended cold and cause the tree to come down without warning it combined with wind. Not to mention the spikey nuts that are hard on the mower and gutters.